Kevin,

I am installing the EzAcDc marine shore power system. Could you please clear something up for me?

Is it OK to have the AC and the DC panels in the same area as long as you don’t group the wires together?

I had read to keep the AC and DC apart in marine electrical systems, but I am not sure if that meant just to space wires apart so they don’t chafe through and connect systems or if they needed further separation.

Thanks.

Mike

Hi Mike,

Yes. It is OK to have both panels in the same area.

Per the American Boat and Yacht Council, if the AC system and DC system are on the same panel, then the AC system needs to have an enclosure to prevent accidental contact when you are working on the DC side. Even though it is not required, the EzAcDc Easy Add AC panel has rear safety enclosure.

When installing AC and DC boat wiring, it is a good practice to separate the AC and DC wiring because most AC HOT wires are black and most DC GROUND wires are black. Accidental swapping would be very dangerous.

I hope that this is helpful. Please let me know if you have any other questions about your project.

Kevin

Kevin,

I bought a four-position switch to replace my four-position/four-terminal switch on my Mercury Marine 5.0 MPI’s boat wiring. 

The problem is the new switch has arrived and has six wires. The extra two say 5 and 6 position are for the battery and ignition – as shown in the attached picture.

Should I ignore these and cut the wires off or should I connect them to 1 and 4? 

Do I need a different switch?

Dan

Hi Dan,

This switch will work fine.

Ignore positions 5 and 6. They are internally connected to 1 and 4. You can either cut them off or tape them up.

Kevin

Kevin,

My boat’s actual trim works fine, but even so, the trim gauge always reads up.

I tested the wires from the sender under the motor all the way to the dash with a meter and found that the resistance varies. So, I took the gauge out to buy another. Before I spend the dough, is there some way to bench test the gauge?

Thanks.

Tony

A trim gauge is basically an ohm meter, so a bench test is possible.

• Connect your battery positive (+) to the positive post on the gauge.
• Connect your battery ground (-) to the the negative post on the gauge.
• Momentarily connect a wire from the battery – to the sender post on the gauge.

No wire connected will make the gauge move completely in one direction and a ground wire connected to the sender post will make the gauge move completely in the other direction.

Let me know if you have more boat wiring questions,

Kevin

Dear Kevin,

I am currently beginning my first boat wiring project, a total rewire of a small Owens cruiser from the late ’60s.

Here’s my problem:

The old wiring runs behind the original paneling and headliner. I could try dismantling everything to remove and replace the wires, but am concerned about damaging any of the woodwork. It’s old. It’s gorgeous. It would be a bitch to replace.

I don’t mind leaving the old wiring in place and just running a new harness, but that still leaves the problem of installing the new wires without causing any damage.

Any ideas?

RP

Dear Ron,

Your problem was common with boat restoration projects – until the introduction of Harness in a Can.

Harness in a Can lets you spray pro-quality boat wiring into even the most hard to reach areas. Simply point, spray, and apply power. What could be easier?

And, it’s not just easy, it’s ABYC approved! Harness in a Can sprays out a harness with correct wire color and sizing – and with all of the connections that you need to get the job done fast.

If you order now, you will also receive a cap snaffler – absolutely free. Cap snafflers snaffle caps off any size jug, bottle or jar…and they really really work.

Call now to order. The toll free number is 877-277-3665. Operators are standing by. That’s 877-APR-FOOL.

Kevin.