Kevin,

Wow…the world’s greatest site for boat wiring ever…thank you for your contribution to the boating world!!!!

Here we go…2002 Harbor Master 440W. Flip on the navigation lights at either helm, up or down, and within 10 seconds…pops the breaker and no nav lights.

I own a Multimeter…damn fine one at that…but have no idea how to use it, where to start or what to do to chase this down. Thought I would take the logical approach…hire the boatyard to fix…but they have had the work order now for 7 months and have just not had a chance to get to it.

I know I can chase this problem down with your professional guidance.

Help.

Warmest Regards…

Walt

Hi Walt,

First:

• Test the breaker.
• Check the rating on the breaker.
• Remove one of the wires from the breaker.
• Connect one of your meter wires to the open breaker tab and the other to the wire.
• Select AMPS on your meter.
• Turn on the switch.

If the current that trips the breaker is less than the breaker rating, replace the breaker.

Second:

• Reconnect the breaker.
• Most individual navigation lights draw less than 1 amp. Remove one of the nav light wires from either nav light switch (gray/green for nav lights and gray/blue for anchor lights). Connect your meter using the same method used above.
• Turn on the switch. Do this for each output wire on each switch. This will determine which wire has the short.

Once your determine which wire is causing the breaker to trip, follow the wire to the light it is associated with. The problem will be between the switch and the light.

You should be able to determine which wire is causing the problem in a few minutes. Finding the short may take a while, but it will be a simple fix.

Let me know if you have any questions,

Kevin

Hello,

First off…..Let me say, that I have enjoyed reading through a ton of posts on your site. You perform a great service, and knowledge is power.

I am going to be adding a trolling motor soon to my 191 CC Mako. The trolling motor is a 24 volt model. I would like to add two Group 31 deep cycle batteries for the trolling motor, and have one dual purpose battery to crank with. Three batteries total.

I would also like to pull 12 volt power leg out of my 24 volt series to power accessories and act as a house battery when I am not using the trolling motor, and an emergency crank battery.

I have included a wiring diagram that I drew up. Please take a look at it for me.

What concerns me most is the 12 volt ground coming off one of the batteries in series. Have I done this right? I thought this problem might be a good one to discuss on Easy Ac/Dc.

I have found no answer to this on the internet yet. I would be happy to update this diagram per your recommendations and give you the corrected one in the end, if you would like it.

Thanks,

David

Hi David,

Very nice schematic.

I would suggest some minor changes.

I would use battery A instead of battery B as your paralleling battery. Basically you would be paralleling to your 0 to 12 volt battery instead of your 12 to 24 volt battery. This will create a common ground in your boat wiring and help reduce stray current corrosion and accidental mis-connected grounds.

After you switch your paralleling switch to be connected to battery A, pay close attention to 12 volt devices that you may connect only to Battery B. If their ground wire comes in contact with any other ground wire in the system, it will create a dead shore across Battery A. You may want to consider installing circuit protection in the ground wire of any 12 volt item that you connect only to battery B.

Your bilge pump “manual on” switch needs to draw power from the same fuse as your bilge pump “auto” switch. You should only have a single source of power for any device. I would keep the switch at the helm, but run a wire from the auto bilge fuse (load side) to the line side of your bilge pump switch.

Make sure your wire sizes are appropriate. When your cranking battery switch is in the parallel or trolling motor battery position, the cranking circuit will include the wire from the switch to Battery A. Battery A to your Ground buss. Ground buss to Battery C. These wires should be at least the same size as the main engine battery cables.

Let me know if you have any other questions,

Kevin

Hello,

I have recently bought an early 80s 22 ft Chrysler sailboat. The electrcal system is bascalliy non-existent.

I am starting from scratch and want to add a DC system that is capable of accepting shore power. Initially I am only interested in adding basic navigation and communication system and some lighting. However, I do want the system to be expandable and capable of accepting shore power or a portable generator.

I have no idea what I need to start with. Can you please provide some suggestions?

Will

Hi Will,

Our partners at EzAcDc have a great system solution for you.

You can combine their Fully Wired Marine Switch Panel with one of their Deluxe Boat Wiring Harnesses to make a complete system for all of the items you have listed.

The switch panel will control navigation/anchor lights, courtesy lights, and 2 accessories. It includes a voltmeter so you can monitor your battery condition. The boat wiring harness has wires for split red/green forward navigation lights and a single white stern light. It also provides wires for a courtesy light. The additional switches can be connected to other devices such as VHF radios and GPSs.

For the future, connecting marine shore power is not too difficult as long as you as focus on safety. For small systems, you always want to use GFCI protection and the DC ground is connected to the AC ground. Always look at the worst case and make sure a breaker will trip before somebody gets a shock.

The two biggest problems with portable generators are carbon monoxide generation and AC grounding. The best way to connect a portable generator to a small boat is through the shore power connection with a long cordset (keeps CO away from sleeping area). When making your electrical connection, make sure the AC neutral is connected to the AC ground on the generator.

Please let me know if you have any questions,

Kevin

Kevin,

Thanks for the fast reply and I think both the products you reccomend will work great for my boat. But I am still unsure about the shore power connections and the battery charger I would need?

Will

Hi Will,

Besides a battery charger, what other AC devices do you plan on adding to your boat?

Kevin

Kevin,

Whatever cord I would need to connect the battery charger to shore power, a bilge pump (or maybe two due to my boat’s design) and a stereo and a fan.

Will

Hi Will,

I would seriously consider using a battery charger like the Guest 2608A combined with a Connect Charge Inlet as your shore power system. The charger has a standard extension cord plug on the end that snaps into the back of the connect charge inlet. The connect charge inlet mounts through the deck of your boat. You can plug a conventional extension cord into this inlet.

The rest of the devices on your boat can be DC and run off of the battery.

This approach will save you several hundred dollars on your shore power system while achieving the same results.

One of the next EzAcDc items will be marine shore power systems for a small boat. It will include an AC cabin panel, a 30 amp shore power inlet, multiple outlets and cabling. It will also provide a means of connecting a battery charger and a refrigerator. This kit will be on the market for around $300.

Please let me know if you are interested in this type of kit and we can work a discounted deal in exchange for installation photos.

Thanks,

Kevin

Dear Kevin,

I am currently beginning my first boat wiring project, a total rewire of a small Owens cruiser from the late ’60s.

Here’s my problem:

The old wiring runs behind the original paneling and headliner. I could try dismantling everything to remove and replace the wires, but am concerned about damaging any of the woodwork. It’s old. It’s gorgeous. It would be a bitch to replace.

I don’t mind leaving the old wiring in place and just running a new harness, but that still leaves the problem of installing the new wires without causing any damage.

Any ideas?

RP

Dear Ron,

Your problem was common with boat restoration projects – until the introduction of Harness in a Can.

Harness in a Can lets you spray pro-quality boat wiring into even the most hard to reach areas. Simply point, spray, and apply power. What could be easier?

And, it’s not just easy, it’s ABYC approved! Harness in a Can sprays out a harness with correct wire color and sizing – and with all of the connections that you need to get the job done fast.

If you order now, you will also receive a cap snaffler – absolutely free. Cap snafflers snaffle caps off any size jug, bottle or jar…and they really really work.

Call now to order. The toll free number is 877-277-3665. Operators are standing by. That’s 877-APR-FOOL.

Kevin.