Hello,

I purchased the VSR Smart Battery Switch from your partners at EzAcDc and now I am a tad bit confused. I removed my old battery switch, which had a lead from the Starter which is tied into the alternator.

The old switch was between the battery and the starter on that red wire, then it branched out to the batteries and both batteries went to ground. Simple.

Looking at the drawing that came with the system, I’m confused as to where the “charging” feed comes in? I’m assuming that is the left side of the diagram indicated as the engine Positive Cable. However I’m not sure where to hook up the outbound side into my boat harness Ala boat harness ground and boat harness power. Perhaps I got the wrong diagram?

Thanks so much for the help!
Tim

Hi Tim,

I’m sorry for the confusion.

Your 3.0L engine’s charging circuit is fed to the cranking battery through your engine start cable. The Orange alternator output wire runs from the alternator to the starter. It is connected to the same lug on the starter as the engine positive battery cable.

Your engine negative battery cable and your boat harness ground will both connect to the ground bus that came with your kit. Your boat accessory harness positive wire will connect to the back of the battery switch to the same terminal as one of the VSR wires.

If all of the accessories on your marine electrical system are powered up through the red/purple power lead that runs from your engine up to your dash, you will need to run a separate power wire from your new battery switch to the fuse block/breaker panel to separate these two circuits. Add circuit protection at the battery switch to protect this new wire.

Please let me know if you have any questions,

Kevin

Kevin,

Thanks for the response.

Just so I get this right

1. The red of the start lug (which also has the alternator orange wire on it) would attach to Lug number 1 on the switch.
2. Can I assume since the harness is already grounded that i don’t have to mess with grounding here?
3. Finally the red/purple. You’re saying to just disconnect the red/purple at the 20 amp fuse (page 5) and run a new wire from the lug into that fuse?

Thanks

Tim

Hi Tim,

You are correct on the first two assumptions above.  

As for the third question about the red/purple, you will need to run a separate wire to power your fuse block. The Red/Purple in your engine harness that runs up to your helm provides power for your key switch and instruments. Do not disconnect this wire. You will want these items to be powered by the engine battery.

Your existing red/purple probably connects to a fuse panel at the helm. The ignition switch gets it’s power from this fuse panel also. Disconnect the red/purple from the fuse block and connect it to your ignition switch. There is usually some form of circuit protection on this boat wiring. Please use it. Run a new wire (10 awg at least) from LUG number 2 on the battery switch to the fuse block under your helm. Install circuit protection (40 to 50 amps) as close as possible to the battery switch.

I hope this helps. If you are not sure on how to connect the red/purple, send me some digital pictures of your helm fuse panel and I will mark them up.

Kevin

Kevin,

I need to change out the pump on my shower sump. I will need your help to rewire it.

The pump has two wires. What is the best way to stop the power to the pump? I do not see any breakers,fuses etc.

Thank you for any help.

Dan

Hi Dan,

If you cannot find the breaker, go back to boat wiring basics and disconnect the battery.

Kevin

Kevin

Thank you for your reply and patience.

This is my first cruiser. I have two “house” batteries and one for the motors. If I disconnect their grounds will I screw up any of the marine electrical system when I reconnect and need to reset any systems? (i.e.. motors,generator,computers,gps etc)

Dan

Hi Dan,

The pump runs on 12 volt DC and there is no real danger if you short out the wires.

Make the connection one wire at a time. The worst thing that will happen is you find out where the shower sump circuit protection is.

Kevin

Kevin,

I am installing the EzAcDc marine shore power system. Could you please clear something up for me?

Is it OK to have the AC and the DC panels in the same area as long as you don’t group the wires together?

I had read to keep the AC and DC apart in marine electrical systems, but I am not sure if that meant just to space wires apart so they don’t chafe through and connect systems or if they needed further separation.

Thanks.

Mike

Hi Mike,

Yes. It is OK to have both panels in the same area.

Per the American Boat and Yacht Council, if the AC system and DC system are on the same panel, then the AC system needs to have an enclosure to prevent accidental contact when you are working on the DC side. Even though it is not required, the EzAcDc Easy Add AC panel has rear safety enclosure.

When installing AC and DC boat wiring, it is a good practice to separate the AC and DC wiring because most AC HOT wires are black and most DC GROUND wires are black. Accidental swapping would be very dangerous.

I hope that this is helpful. Please let me know if you have any other questions about your project.

Kevin

Kevin,

Wow…the world’s greatest site for boat wiring ever…thank you for your contribution to the boating world!!!!

Here we go…2002 Harbor Master 440W. Flip on the navigation lights at either helm, up or down, and within 10 seconds…pops the breaker and no nav lights.

I own a Multimeter…damn fine one at that…but have no idea how to use it, where to start or what to do to chase this down. Thought I would take the logical approach…hire the boatyard to fix…but they have had the work order now for 7 months and have just not had a chance to get to it.

I know I can chase this problem down with your professional guidance.

Help.

Warmest Regards…

Walt

Hi Walt,

First:

• Test the breaker.
• Check the rating on the breaker.
• Remove one of the wires from the breaker.
• Connect one of your meter wires to the open breaker tab and the other to the wire.
• Select AMPS on your meter.
• Turn on the switch.

If the current that trips the breaker is less than the breaker rating, replace the breaker.

Second:

• Reconnect the breaker.
• Most individual navigation lights draw less than 1 amp. Remove one of the nav light wires from either nav light switch (gray/green for nav lights and gray/blue for anchor lights). Connect your meter using the same method used above.
• Turn on the switch. Do this for each output wire on each switch. This will determine which wire has the short.

Once your determine which wire is causing the breaker to trip, follow the wire to the light it is associated with. The problem will be between the switch and the light.

You should be able to determine which wire is causing the problem in a few minutes. Finding the short may take a while, but it will be a simple fix.

Let me know if you have any questions,

Kevin