Hello,

I have recently bought an early 80s 22 ft Chrysler sailboat. The electrcal system is bascalliy non-existent.

I am starting from scratch and want to add a DC system that is capable of accepting shore power. Initially I am only interested in adding basic navigation and communication system and some lighting. However, I do want the system to be expandable and capable of accepting shore power or a portable generator.

I have no idea what I need to start with. Can you please provide some suggestions?

Will

Hi Will,

Our partners at EzAcDc have a great system solution for you.

You can combine their Fully Wired Marine Switch Panel with one of their Deluxe Boat Wiring Harnesses to make a complete system for all of the items you have listed.

The switch panel will control navigation/anchor lights, courtesy lights, and 2 accessories. It includes a voltmeter so you can monitor your battery condition. The boat wiring harness has wires for split red/green forward navigation lights and a single white stern light. It also provides wires for a courtesy light. The additional switches can be connected to other devices such as VHF radios and GPSs.

For the future, connecting marine shore power is not too difficult as long as you as focus on safety. For small systems, you always want to use GFCI protection and the DC ground is connected to the AC ground. Always look at the worst case and make sure a breaker will trip before somebody gets a shock.

The two biggest problems with portable generators are carbon monoxide generation and AC grounding. The best way to connect a portable generator to a small boat is through the shore power connection with a long cordset (keeps CO away from sleeping area). When making your electrical connection, make sure the AC neutral is connected to the AC ground on the generator.

Please let me know if you have any questions,

Kevin

Kevin,

Thanks for the fast reply and I think both the products you reccomend will work great for my boat. But I am still unsure about the shore power connections and the battery charger I would need?

Will

Hi Will,

Besides a battery charger, what other AC devices do you plan on adding to your boat?

Kevin

Kevin,

Whatever cord I would need to connect the battery charger to shore power, a bilge pump (or maybe two due to my boat’s design) and a stereo and a fan.

Will

Hi Will,

I would seriously consider using a battery charger like the Guest 2608A combined with a Connect Charge Inlet as your shore power system. The charger has a standard extension cord plug on the end that snaps into the back of the connect charge inlet. The connect charge inlet mounts through the deck of your boat. You can plug a conventional extension cord into this inlet.

The rest of the devices on your boat can be DC and run off of the battery.

This approach will save you several hundred dollars on your shore power system while achieving the same results.

One of the next EzAcDc items will be marine shore power systems for a small boat. It will include an AC cabin panel, a 30 amp shore power inlet, multiple outlets and cabling. It will also provide a means of connecting a battery charger and a refrigerator. This kit will be on the market for around $300.

Please let me know if you are interested in this type of kit and we can work a discounted deal in exchange for installation photos.

Thanks,

Kevin

Kevin,

My family and I are planning on a multi-year sailing trip. I have an Perkin-Sabre M65 engine in my 44′ sailboat. I want to upgrade the existing alternator with a high output Balmar alternator. I am interested in one that works with an external regulator and has the highest amp rating without jeapardizing the water pump bearings. Probably one of the 70-Series 3.15” Dual Foot alternators?

I am also interested in a second alternator.The Perkins-Sabre rep advised:

“The challenge with running a high output alternator in place of the stock 65 A is that you are limited to about 90 A on a single belt. If you require a high output at a lower rpm the belt tension is critical which is extremely hard on the water pump bearings. I have a friend that went through 3 water pumps in one cruising season. The bullet proof way to run large cruising alternators is to run them off the front end, inline with the crank shaft using a coupling and a jack shaft with 2 bearings. This way the engine has no side load on the crank shaft.

The second best would be to have some pulleys made to a specified size for proper alternator speed and side mount the alternators, 1 on each side. This would allow you to drive with double belts as well. Alternators can be a bit of a science project. In a perfect installation the alternator mounting brackets would bolt to the engine allowing everything to operate on the same plane. This does throw you into one more consideration if you choose heavy large frame alternators……front motor mounts. The extra weight may sag the mounts causing alignment problems. The other way is just like the second ,only mounting the alternators to the stringers, one on each side and hope for the best counting on the belts to take up any shock.
There are no brackets available. Anything you do will be custom if you go above 90 A………maybe 100A if you don’t try to pull full output at low rpms.”

I have found no reference to any alternator that operates inline. Can you help me?

Jim

Hi Jim

I have little experience with customer alternator installations.

I would recommend checking with Scott Fracter. Last year, Scott generously allowed us to publish his “Adding a second alternator” article, which is a comprehensive overview of the whole process. He is truly an expert in this area.

If Scott doesn’t have the parts you need, he may be able to make them, or send you in the right direction.

Enjoy your trip.

Please send photos,

Kevin

Dear Kevin,

I am currently beginning my first boat wiring project, a total rewire of a small Owens cruiser from the late ’60s.

Here’s my problem:

The old wiring runs behind the original paneling and headliner. I could try dismantling everything to remove and replace the wires, but am concerned about damaging any of the woodwork. It’s old. It’s gorgeous. It would be a bitch to replace.

I don’t mind leaving the old wiring in place and just running a new harness, but that still leaves the problem of installing the new wires without causing any damage.

Any ideas?

RP

Dear Ron,

Your problem was common with boat restoration projects – until the introduction of Harness in a Can.

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And, it’s not just easy, it’s ABYC approved! Harness in a Can sprays out a harness with correct wire color and sizing – and with all of the connections that you need to get the job done fast.

If you order now, you will also receive a cap snaffler – absolutely free. Cap snafflers snaffle caps off any size jug, bottle or jar…and they really really work.

Call now to order. The toll free number is 877-277-3665. Operators are standing by. That’s 877-APR-FOOL.

Kevin.

Kevin,

With no generator or selector switch, my boat’s galvanic isolator is currently located between the shore power ground connection and the 110V ground bus. The 110V ground bus ties into the 12V negative bus and the boat ground (a steel pontoon).

I have recently restored my onboard generator and have installed a source selector switch (shore power or generator). I’ve read everything I can and I still can not identify to my satisfaction how to connect a galvanic isolator into an electrical system with shore power, an onboard generator, and a source selector switch.

The confusion (on my part) is that the battery selector switch being used has a separate connection for the ground wire from each source on what appears to be a solid bus bar connecting them. This suggests that both the shore power ground and the generator ground are connected and wired to the isolator inlet and the isolator outlet is wired to the 110V ground bus, the 12V negative bus, and the boat ground (steel pontoon).

Is this correct? Maybe the separate ground connections to the battery switch exist only to support the reverse polarity LED light, but it is still confusing.

Your guidance is requested.

Dave Freeman
Richland, WA

Dave,

The main reason for a galvanic isolator is to prevent stray current corrosion through your boat’s shore power connection. It basically induces enough of a voltage drop to prevent a galvanic cell from being created between your metal underwater gear that is electrically connected through your shore power ground wire to other metal gear in the same body of water – usually the dock.

To be effective, the galvanic isolator must break the shore power ground wire – the green wire between your inlet and your AC panel. All of the AC grounds on your boat wiring system should be connected together – Generator and existing AC systems.

You should have a single wire that connects the DC ground to your AC ground.

Hope this helps,

Kevin