Kevin,

We have three AFI wiper motors on our boat wiring. We have three switches and three fuses for the motors but they are all connected to the same circuit breaker.

Two of the wipers do not work at all and the third will come on sometimes but won’t stay on. The circuit breaker light stays on and the fuses are not burned out.

Are the motors getting the right amperage or any idea of what the problem might be?

Maureen

Hi Maureen,

Each wiper motor will three wires: Ground, On, and Park. If you are missing any of these wires, your wiper will not function properly.

1. I would inspect the wiper motor grounds first. This is the only wire that all three motors have in common. The metal case AFI wiper motors are grounded to one of the motor housing bolts. The plastic case AFI motors have an internal ground.
2. Next, check for constant 12v power to the park terminal on each wiper motor.
3. Finally, check for switched 12v power to the On termianl on each wiper motor.

If all the wiring is correct, then you wiper motors may be dead. Before replacing, I would do one last bench test with separate leads to the wiper motor.

Hope this helps,

Kevin

Dear Kevin,

I am currently beginning my first boat wiring project, a total rewire of a small Owens cruiser from the late ’60s.

Here’s my problem:

The old wiring runs behind the original paneling and headliner. I could try dismantling everything to remove and replace the wires, but am concerned about damaging any of the woodwork. It’s old. It’s gorgeous. It would be a bitch to replace.

I don’t mind leaving the old wiring in place and just running a new harness, but that still leaves the problem of installing the new wires without causing any damage.

Any ideas?

RP

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Kevin.

Hi there,

This question doesn’t cover boat wiring itself, but it may be common enough for you to know the answer. I have a Lund fishing boat that has 2 batteries for the bow-mounted electric trolling motor, which are normally charged via a dual battery charger using standard household electrical power (115 V AC) and standard 3 prong extension cords.

I’ve noticed that the majority of serviced boat slips have 30 amp connectors for the larger boats but rarely any connection for smaller ones like mine. I’ve located an adapter (male 30amp to female 15amp), but I’m worried that if the voltage at the 30 amp service is wrong (e.g 220V), it could damage the charger or batteries or boat wiring.

I would appreciate your comments and advice.

Thanks,

Brian

Brian,

There is a recognized standard plug configuration for 30 amp 115 volt outlets and plugs. As long as it is not modified, it will not plug into any other receptacle.

If you are concerned with the receptacle that you are plugging into, test it with a digital voltmeter first. Test all 3 combinations of the 3 wires. You should read 115v between the Hot and Neutral and between the Hot and Ground. You should read 0v between the Neutral and Ground.

Let me know if you have any questions or concerns,

Kevin

Thanks Kevin,

I forgot to mention that the 30amp-15amp adapter has a label stating “Caution – do not exceed 15amp input”. Is there a way to test the amps at the marina connector or is this not a concern?

Brian

Brian,

This adaptor is plugged into an outlet protected with a 30 amp breaker. Limiting the current that passes through this adaptor is up to you. Your battery charger will only draw 1-2 amps and will cause no problems.

If you plug in several other items at the same time with the use of power strips and exceed the 15 amp rating of the 3 prong plug on your cord will probably catch on fire.

Kevin

Kevin,

I want to add a volt meter to my boat. I have a Teleflex Voltmeter. On the back there are four connections.

1. Ground post
2. A post marked “S”
3. A post marked “I”
4. A connection for the light.

I assumed that

• The “I” means Ignition,to which I connected to a wire on the ignition switch which is only HOT when the switch is 0n
• The “S” means system,which I assumed means a an unswitched hot wire
• The ground is ground, and is hooked to the system ground
• The light connection goes to the positive connection on the light switch.

The meter works, but when I shut the ignition switch off, the meter continues to work. It appears that the “S” (system) needs to have a switch to shut the meter off.

George

George,

Teleflex uses a standard gauge case when they build their voltmeters. This post is necesary for trim, oil pressure, water temperature, and fuel gauges.

The “S” post is not needed on a voltmeter.

Disconnect this wire and your gauge will work great.

Kevin