Dear Kevin,

I am currently beginning my first boat wiring project, a total rewire of a small Owens cruiser from the late ’60s.

Here’s my problem:

The old wiring runs behind the original paneling and headliner. I could try dismantling everything to remove and replace the wires, but am concerned about damaging any of the woodwork. It’s old. It’s gorgeous. It would be a bitch to replace.

I don’t mind leaving the old wiring in place and just running a new harness, but that still leaves the problem of installing the new wires without causing any damage.

Any ideas?

RP

Dear Ron,

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Kevin.

Hello,

Please could you comment on the boat wiring diagram that I’ve drawn up.

It includes:

• Twin Verado outboards
• Shorepower
• Generator
• House batteries.

I’m currently trying to wire up a new boat here in Oman (no technical expertise available) and I’m really concerned about dangerous AC currents floating around the boat whilst my family swims.

Please could you have a look and give me your comments as I’m no expert at this?

I know that I’m missing an earth wire from the fused junction!

Any input from yourself will be most welcome.

Kind regards

Glyn

Hi Glyn,

Very nice diagram!

I have a few comments.

• Add circuit protection at the source of power for your 24 hour emergency bilge pumps fuse panel.
• Add circuit protection at the battery switch for your main DC distribution panel
• Your shore power ground (green) needs to run to your AC ground buss
• Your galvanic isolator is connected between your shore power inlet and the AC ground buss in the green wire

Also, I would consider not connecting the 3 bank inverter to all 3 banks. Instead,

1. Connect two legs to the house battery bank
2. Connect one leg to the port engine battery bank
3. Connect 0 legs to the starboard engine battery bank

This would allow you to completely drain your dc system with the inverter and still be able to start your starboard engine and charge the system through your automatic charge relay

As drawn, your boat’s AC electrical system should be shock proof.

Most marine AC problems occur when the DC ground is not connected to the AC ground. If you boat has an AC fault to a DC component, the common ground will allow the circuit protection on your AC distribution panel to trip and not energize the water below.

Please send me pictures of this project,

Kevin

Hello Kevin,

Thanks for your input.  I’ve updated the pdf (in case you want to use it)

I’ll take pics and send them to you. But, it might take a while as I’m in Oman and it’s a real struggle to source the various electrical components. Nevermind the marine grade wiring (at the local marina they have a bad habit of using domestic grade wiring).

That’s why I’ve elected to attempt all this myself.

Regards

Glyn

Kevin,

I have a 1985 SeaSprite. The speedo was working fine and then just quit. Any suggestions on the problem? And can it be checked out of water?

Steve

Steve,

The speedo measures air/water pressure via a plastic pickup/transducer on the back of your boat. Usually problems arise when the hose breaks or the pickup gets plugged with dirt. Also, keep in mind that the speedo pickup should hang just below the surface of the hull.

You can test the speedo with an air compressor. A few PSI should make the speedo move up.
Start at the transom with the air compressor – If the gauge doesn’t work, test it at the back of the gauge. If it still doesn’t work at the back of the gauge, replace the gauge.

Happy Boating,

Kevin