Dear Kevin,

I am currently beginning my first boat wiring project, a total rewire of a small Owens cruiser from the late ’60s.

Here’s my problem:

The old wiring runs behind the original paneling and headliner. I could try dismantling everything to remove and replace the wires, but am concerned about damaging any of the woodwork. It’s old. It’s gorgeous. It would be a bitch to replace.

I don’t mind leaving the old wiring in place and just running a new harness, but that still leaves the problem of installing the new wires without causing any damage.

Any ideas?

RP

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Kevin.

Kevin,

Please help. I have tried so many things and still cannot get it to work. Here goes.

Bought a boat a few months ago and the fuel gauge reads full.

• I replaced the sending unit and gauge with a matching set. Still full.
• Replaced the wiring, still full.
• Wired separately from the battery on a dual battery system. Here is how I wired it. The hot off the battery to a toggle switch then to the ‘I’ terminal on the gauge. Ground from the same battery to the ground terminal on the sending unit and also the ‘G’ terminal on the gauge. Also a new separate wire from the ‘S’ terminal on the gauge to the center terminal on the sending unit. Still reads full.
• I then bonded the ground wire to the motor. Still reads full.

I removed the sending unit and only 1/4 tank fuel. I put a meter across the center terminal of the sending unit to the ground side of the sending unit and I am getting constant continuity as I moved the float arm up and down.

What am I doing wrong or not doing at all? Is the new sending unit bad possibly???

I tried calling the boat manufacturer and they wont even talk to me as the boat is too old and their service manuals don’t go back that far. It is a 1993 Rinker 260 Fiesta Vee with a 5.7 liter Mercruiser that was replaced in 2005.

Supposedly, the fuel gauge and trim tabs quit working after the motor was replaced. Also, the lower unit trim quit working.

I checked power at the relays as a friend moved the trim switch and I had 12 volts there with the wire disconnected, but as soon as I touched it to the relay the voltage went to zero.

So, I completely rewired it directly off the battery also and it now works fine. It has blown a 30 amp fuse one time though. This is all I have done with the electrical on the boat.

Got any ideas what is going on? I would like to get my fuel gauge working.

Regards,

Scott

Scott,

Fuel Sender

It sounds like your replacement fuel sender is the problem. Full should be about 33 ohms and empty around 250.

Power Trim

Poor connections on a power trim system will give the voltmeter reading that you have described. There is 12 volts available at a very low current (enough to make your meter happy) but not enough when you have the high draw of your trim pump.

Hope this helps,

Kevin

Hey Kevin,

My name is Tim and I have a 1977 Caprice boat with a 175 Evinrude on the back.

I can’t shut the boat off.

I changed the key switch and it made no difference. My gauges aren’t working properly either, any ideas?

Tim

Tim

I would check the ground (black) wire for your gauges. This is probably the same ground that connects to the ignition switch. When the ignition switch is turned off, this ground is connected to the Magneto ground (black/yellow wire).

If this ground is not connected, the engine will definitely not shut down and the gauges will not work properly.

Hope this helps,

Kevin

Hi Kevin,

I have a 96’ Scout with an internal gas tank.

When I turn the ignition switch to on, the fuel gauge immediately pegs high (past full) and stays there.

Before I get too intrusive I was wondering if you have any suggestions?

Thanks,

Drew

Drew,

A pegged full fuel gauge usually means the sender is stuck in the “up” position or that there is a short in the pink sender wire.

Here are the steps I would take:

1. Disconnect the pink wire from the gauge. If the gauge is still pegged, replace the gauge. If not, reconnect.
2. Disconnect the pink wire from the sender. If the gauge is still pegged, the pink wire has a short in it between the fuel gauge and the tank. If not still pegged, the problem is the sender.
3. Remove the sender.Determine if it is a mechanical or an electrical failure. A mechanical failure will be obvious. To test for electrical failure, connect an OHM meter where the two wires were connected. You should read 33 ohms for full and 240 ohms for empty.

One of these steps will locate your fuel gauge problem,

Kevin

Kevin

Thanks for your quick response. 

Looks like a sender problem since I eliminated the gauge based on your comments.  I removed the sender yesterday and it looked in good shape but will need to go back and check the resistance. 

Again – thanks!