Dear Kevin,

I am currently beginning my first boat wiring project, a total rewire of a small Owens cruiser from the late ’60s.

Here’s my problem:

The old wiring runs behind the original paneling and headliner. I could try dismantling everything to remove and replace the wires, but am concerned about damaging any of the woodwork. It’s old. It’s gorgeous. It would be a bitch to replace.

I don’t mind leaving the old wiring in place and just running a new harness, but that still leaves the problem of installing the new wires without causing any damage.

Any ideas?

RP

Dear Ron,

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Kevin.

Hi Kevin,

My name is Thomas.

I just picked up a set of Lenco trim tabs and the directions say to connect the retractor wire (orange) to the engine tach signal. On my boat that’s the negative side of the ignition coil.

Is this what they mean? Or does it go somewhere else?

Thanks in advance.
Thomas

Hi Thomas,

If you want to use the retractor function of your Lenco tabs, you will need to connect the orange wire to the negative side of your coil.

I believe that the retractor function of the Lenco tabs will work by simple connecting the orange wire to your switched ignition wire, but this might explain why Lenco doesn’t seem to publish this anymore.

Great question,

Kevin

Kevin,

Thank you for all your help. I found that info.

By the by, following the suggestion on your web site, I got a boat wiring harness and a marine electrical panel from EzAcDc. It all works perfectly!

The EzAcDc boat wiring was easy to install and modify to my particular needs. I set it up independant of the ignition so the panel is live so long as at least one of the batteries is switched on.

However I am thinking that I want another automatic bilge pump, my third, unfused & wired direct – bypassing the main switch so it will pump any time and unattended while I’m ashore goofing off.

Any thoughts on that?

Thanks again for this awesome resorce!

Thomas

Thomas,

You will want to have circuit protection for your third pump. All new bilge pumps have their fuse size stamped on them.

To wire this new pump correctly, install your fuse/breaker as close as possible to the battery. You will have two wires leaving your fuse. One goes directly to your auto float switch and the other to your manual bilge pump switch. The wires leaving your float switch and your manual switch are connected together (usually near the bilge pump) to provide two different ways to turn on the pump. Attach your bilge pump ground to your battery negative or a ground buss.

Happy boating,

Kevin

Hi again,

Sadly your trim tab link didn’t work. Pitty, as I like to know all I can about any given thing.

So conecting to the tach wont disrupt the tach reading? Is one way better than the other?

Thanks,

Thomas

Sorry about that.

Do a Google search for “Lenco Bennet Lawsuit” and check out the articles on the Boating Industry site.

As for the trim tab installation, connecting the retractor wire to the coil will not disrupt the tach reading.

Have a great day,

Kevin

Kevin,

I have a question in regards to wiring my boat tachometer. I have a 1973 135Hp Johnson outboard V4 on a 1970 Glastron and the tachometer is not working simply because it’s not connected to the rest of the boat wiring.

So where do I start..? I’ll run all new wires, but to what? And how many wire leads will I need? Do I wire it into the throttle box, if so, to the ignition switch and how or do I have to run a set of wires to the motor directly?

Thank you,

Russ

Russ,

All the required wires should already be at your ignition switch/throttle box.

• Purple – Switched power from Key switch – Connect to B+ on your tachometer
• Gray – Tach signal – Connect to the S on your tachometer
• Black – Gauge ground – connect to the (-) on your tachometer

Hope this helps,

Kevin

Kevin,

Thank you kindly; you’re really prompt and it’s appreciated.  I can’t wait to get back under the dash and look for those contacts on the tach. 

Funny, I just had to replace my throttle cables last weekend (it snapped just past the no wake zone; not good, however we couldn’t dare tell our 4 and 5 year old boys that the party was over.  They were so excited to be on the boat for their first time, so we came up with a plan; my wife steered as I sat in the back with the motor and cables pushing and pulling on them until we got it down pretty good and off we went to finish out the fishing adventure; had a great day anyway) and I had the throttle box completely apart.  And so at the same time you just solved the two dangling wire mystery from below my throttle box. 

I look forward to opening the throttle box back open and hooking it up right and actually seeing the tach operable.  I’ll keep you posted and if I run into any other problems or question I’ll reach out again; great website…

Thank you again Kevin and sorry for that long story, but I couldn’t help it we are first time boaters and having a ball.

Russ

Hello,

Please could you comment on the boat wiring diagram that I’ve drawn up.

It includes:

• Twin Verado outboards
• Shorepower
• Generator
• House batteries.

I’m currently trying to wire up a new boat here in Oman (no technical expertise available) and I’m really concerned about dangerous AC currents floating around the boat whilst my family swims.

Please could you have a look and give me your comments as I’m no expert at this?

I know that I’m missing an earth wire from the fused junction!

Any input from yourself will be most welcome.

Kind regards

Glyn

Hi Glyn,

Very nice diagram!

I have a few comments.

• Add circuit protection at the source of power for your 24 hour emergency bilge pumps fuse panel.
• Add circuit protection at the battery switch for your main DC distribution panel
• Your shore power ground (green) needs to run to your AC ground buss
• Your galvanic isolator is connected between your shore power inlet and the AC ground buss in the green wire

Also, I would consider not connecting the 3 bank inverter to all 3 banks. Instead,

1. Connect two legs to the house battery bank
2. Connect one leg to the port engine battery bank
3. Connect 0 legs to the starboard engine battery bank

This would allow you to completely drain your dc system with the inverter and still be able to start your starboard engine and charge the system through your automatic charge relay

As drawn, your boat’s AC electrical system should be shock proof.

Most marine AC problems occur when the DC ground is not connected to the AC ground. If you boat has an AC fault to a DC component, the common ground will allow the circuit protection on your AC distribution panel to trip and not energize the water below.

Please send me pictures of this project,

Kevin

Hello Kevin,

Thanks for your input.  I’ve updated the pdf (in case you want to use it)

I’ll take pics and send them to you. But, it might take a while as I’m in Oman and it’s a real struggle to source the various electrical components. Nevermind the marine grade wiring (at the local marina they have a bad habit of using domestic grade wiring).

That’s why I’ve elected to attempt all this myself.

Regards

Glyn