Kevin,

I want to install underdeck LED lighting on my pontoon boat.

Can I use one strand of wiring for all the lights? I simply want to tap into the main wire at each desired location of the LED by using a splice connectors.

Is this okay?

Jarrod

Hi Jarrod,

Nice choice! The new underdeck lights for pontoons are gorgeous. Many of the large production pontoon builders here in the Great Lakes are offering them as options for the new model year. So there should be on lakes around the country by next summer.

As for your project, it is a common boat wiring practice to run multiple lights off on the same set of wire leads.

Since these will be below deck, I would recommend using a waterproof splice to keep corrosion out. Even though your pontoon boat has lots of aluminum, I would not recommend using any of it as your ground. The ground wires for the lights can be combined together just like the power wires.

Kevin

Thanks, Kevin.

I had planed to splice each light onto the wire at different places. Is this still okay?

If so, I guess I tie the negative to the negative on the main. What do I do with negative?. I will be using a distribution panel.

Thanks again.

Jarrod

Hi Jarrod,

You can certainly spice each light power and ground in at different locations. If you distribution panel does not have a ground block, you can run the LED light ground back to your battery or a marine electrical ground bus in that area.

Thanks

Kevin

Hey There,

First off – what a cool site! If you get back to me I’ll be really impressed.

Thought I’d ask before I buy a $20 electrical part I won’t be able to return…

The girlfriend’s Whaler has a three-position push/pull, three terminals. The switch sends 12 volt dc to the anchor light, but less than 3 volt dc to the red and green navigation lights at the bow.

I can swap two terminals and get the inverse..12 volt to the bow, less than 3 volt to the anchor light. Safe to assume it’s the switch?

Will all three way switches be:

• Off
• On post 1
• On post 1 & 2?

It looks like Attwood Marine 7594 should work. I assume I can remove the screws and the existing crimp on receptacles on the wires will slide over the terminals?

Thanks,

John

Hi John,

It sounds like the switch is corroded internally and causing the large voltage drop. You may be able to take it apart and just clean it up.

Not all three-way marine electrical switches will be the same. Some may make contact at each position independently and not a do a “combine”.

I checked Attwood’s schematic on the 7594, it will work great for you application.

This will be a simple boat wiring  job,

Kevin

Kevin,

One of our pals at the marina has a pair of Attwood LED underwater lights. They are gorgeous and make late night swimming and partying a total blast! After one trip out, I can see that I have to add these to my boat too.

I’ve been told that installing these lights is easy. I wanted see if you agree before I get into a complicated boat wiring project.

So, is adding these Attwood lights really an easy job?

Thanks,

Beogio

Hello Beogio,

The Attwood underwater lights are great looking – not expensive, last forever (when was the last time you bought a light with a ten year warranty?) and fairly simple to install.

The key to the easy installation is that only one 3/8″ wire hole is needed. This is a big deal because except for Attwood, nearly all underwater lights require you to cut a minimum 3″ hole below the water line – and for as many boat jobs as I’ve done, that’s still a scary prospect!

Once the lights are attached to the transom, run the wire to your switch and be sure to add 1 amp of circuit protection for each light array that you install – a lot of cruisers are putting two to four of these on.

Here are the Attwood installation instructions in case you need any additional info.

I hope that this is helpful. Please let me know if you have any other questions.

Kevin