Easy Ac/Dc

Boat Wiring and Marine Electrical

Archive for the ‘Marine Engines’ Category

Boat Wiring Wizard?

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Kevin,

I could really use some of your wiring wizardry.

I have have a 2009 Centurion Avalanche. I put it up for winter and everything was working fine. I charged and installed the boat batteries after winter. All of the switches work, horn, stereo, pump, etc. I go to bump the key and I get nothing. The boat is still on the trailer and before I drag it to the lake I wanted to ensure that power was getting to the starter.Centurion Avalanche

I made sure that the batteries are fully charged, boat battery switch is in the on position, emergency kill switch is in place, boat is in neutral…and I get nothing when I bump the key. I pulled the fuse behind the ignition switch and it looked fine.

The boat has dual batteries. The boat dealer added an marine battery switch last year as the batteries were draining even though the battery switch was turned to the off position.

The boat on has forty hours on it. After working in a confined space and pulling my hair out, I could use some expert advice.

Thanks,

Tommy

Hi Tommy,

If the instruments have power when you turn on the key, then I would check the neutral safety switch. Based on Standard Boat Wiring Colors, follow the yellow/red wire from the starter post on the key switch to the neutral safety switch in the shifter control.

If the key switch has no power, I would check the breaker on the engine that feeds power to the ignition.

If you use a voltmeter or a test light, you will be able to find the problem. It may be something as simple as wiggle the shifter a little or replacing the starter solenoid.

Hope this helps,

Kevin

Kevin,

I’m in the boat now with even less hair.

The ignition in the on position does nothing as well as the start position.

It appears that power isn’t getting to the switch. The fuse leading up to the switch looks good. I have also been playing with the shift lever to find the sweet spot, no luck.

Trying to locate the breaker on the engine.

Thanks for all of your advice, hopefully I can get on the lake today.

Tommy

Kevin,

You the man!!! It was the engine breaker.

Tommy

Four Winns Wiring

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Hello Kevin,

I have a 1989 Four Winns Liberator 201 with a 350 OMC motor. I pulled the boat out of winterization today and wanted to check everything before I put the boat in the water.

When I went to hit the boat horn to test it, the horn sounded weak and eventually faded and did not work.

Next the navigation lights would not turn on. But when I hit the horn, the lights will turn on until the horn is released then they go off. Not sure if it could be a bad ground or short in the wiring.1989 Four Winns catalog for 201 Liberator

I removed the access cover and found someone has cut and spliced wires on the boat before. There are also some wires disconnected and zip tied up and others just cut.

The boat blower motor did work when starting the boat but now it also will not turn on. I’m not an expert in marine electrical by any means but would like to find the issue my self. I have a voltmeter but never used it other than checking glow plug relays on diesel engines. I have used a test light on trailers – checking for power and such so I do have a little knowledge but not where to start on this project.

Any help would be great.

Thanks

Mark

Hi Mark,

I’m a HUGE Liberator fan. I worked at Four Winns during the era after their production.

There are few marine wiring items to check since several things have quit working.

  • Main engine plug – round plug 1 1/4″ diameter on the starboard side of the engine. Unplug and check terminals
  • Boat harness ground – check ground connection on rear bell housing of the engine
  • Helm fuse block – check ground and power leads on the main fuse block under the helm

Once your find the corroded connection, replace as necessary.

Good luck,

Kevin

Tunnel Hull Rewire

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Hello Kevin,

I am in the middle of the complete rebuild of of an older 19′ tunnel hull CC.

I am rapidly approaching the dreaded marine electrical portion of the job and I am thrilled to have stumbled upon your sister boat wiring site, EzAcDc. As I piece together the marine electric items I think I will need, I am requesting your assistance.Mako Tunnel

My outboard power is a 90HP Merc Optimax.

I would like to run dual batteries with a smart boat battery switch system. I need to run navigation lights, bilge pumps, and a hydraulic jack plate via the switch panel. I would prefer to add docking lights also operated by the switch panel and at least one 12 volt outlet.

I prefer to run two bilge pumps on separate auto float switches operated by a single panel switch. Additionally, I see the switch panels that come with 12V outlets, but do you sell 12V remote outlets by themselves?

So far, I am looking at the following:

Here are my questions:

  • Will my bilge set up run on a 5 amp switch? Jack plate?
  • Should a 10 amp ACC switch run any reasonable headlight setup?
  • Battery recommendation?

Thanks,

Hank

Hi Hank,

  • I would not recommend running two bilge pumps with the same switch. If you add a second pump, you will run the risk of nuisance tripping the circuit breaker when both pumps are running. If you increase the size of the breaker, you run the risk of not tripping the breaker if the pump motor gets clogged and locked.
  • Most jack plates operate with a momentary up / off / momentary down. They actuate a relay system that comes with the power jack plate.
  • The 10 amp accessory circuit will accommodate a pair of 55 watt halogen lights. Most docking lights are either 35 watt or 55 watt.
  • You may want to consider switching to the eight-switch marine electrical panel to have room for all of the switches that you are considering. You would have enough switches for two separate bilge pumps, docking lights, jack plate, etc.
  • I have always been a fan of the classic Interstate battery. The HD24-DP is a good all-round battery. The Optima Blue Top is also a great battery choice.

Please let me know if you have any questions,

Kevin