Kevin,

Here is a boat wiring diagram for the marine electrical on my 2008 Clearwater 2200WA with a 225HP Yamaha.

I have a two battery configuration where one is used for starting and the other is the house battery for electronics and the like. I have both boat batteries connected via a dual circuit marine battery switch (5511e) and both batteries are charged via isolated leads from the outboard since this outboard provides an accessory charging lead in addition to the primary lead to the starting circuit.

I keep both batteries off via the battery switch when the boat is not in use and the only direct wiring to the battery is for the bilge pump float switch.

The other day, I could not start the motor because of a discharged starting battery after the boat had sat for several days. I switched to the combine mode and the motor started. Ran all day with no issues.

Two questions, please: Is there a problem with the boat battery wiring or charging circuit? Will this circuit accommodate a battery charger if the boat battery switch is in the off position?

Thanks.

Frank

Hi Frank,

This is a great marine electrical system and the dual circuit PLUS battery switch is one of the key components. My best guess on the dead battery would be the device that is connected to the mystery red lead connected to your starting battery (at the switch). It is probably a stereo memory wire or some type of memory device.

With the switch in the off position, you will need to use a dual output battery charger or manually connect your charger to one battery and then to the other. If you are installing a dual output charger, I strongly recommend connecting the battery at the switch and your ground bus and not at the battery. Too many battery connections become confusing and the mix of small and large wires on the terminals always causes a loose connection.

Hope this helps and nice wiring diagram,

Kevin

Hello Kevin,

I have a 1989 Four Winns Liberator 201 with a 350 OMC motor. I pulled the boat out of winterization today and wanted to check everything before I put the boat in the water.

When I went to hit the boat horn to test it, the horn sounded weak and eventually faded and did not work.

Next the navigation lights would not turn on. But when I hit the horn, the lights will turn on until the horn is released then they go off. Not sure if it could be a bad ground or short in the wiring.

I removed the access cover and found someone has cut and spliced wires on the boat before. There are also some wires disconnected and zip tied up and others just cut.

The boat blower motor did work when starting the boat but now it also will not turn on. I’m not an expert in marine electrical by any means but would like to find the issue my self. I have a voltmeter but never used it other than checking glow plug relays on diesel engines. I have used a test light on trailers – checking for power and such so I do have a little knowledge but not where to start on this project.

Any help would be great.

Thanks

Mark

Hi Mark,

I’m a HUGE Liberator fan. I worked at Four Winns during the era after their production.

There are few marine wiring items to check since several things have quit working.

• Main engine plug – round plug 1 1/4″ diameter on the starboard side of the engine. Unplug and check terminals
• Boat harness ground – check ground connection on rear bell housing of the engine
• Helm fuse block – check ground and power leads on the main fuse block under the helm

Once your find the corroded connection, replace as necessary.

Good luck,

Kevin

Hello Kevin,

I am in the middle of the complete rebuild of of an older 19′ tunnel hull CC.

I am rapidly approaching the dreaded marine electrical portion of the job and I am thrilled to have stumbled upon your sister boat wiring site, EzAcDc. As I piece together the marine electric items I think I will need, I am requesting your assistance.

My outboard power is a 90HP Merc Optimax.

I would like to run dual batteries with a smart boat battery switch system. I need to run navigation lights, bilge pumps, and a hydraulic jack plate via the switch panel. I would prefer to add docking lights also operated by the switch panel and at least one 12 volt outlet.

I prefer to run two bilge pumps on separate auto float switches operated by a single panel switch. Additionally, I see the switch panels that come with 12V outlets, but do you sell 12V remote outlets by themselves?

So far, I am looking at the following:

• Complete Smart Marine Battery Switch System
• Snap Together Boat Wiring Harness
• Snap Together Five Switch Marine Electrical Panel
• Attwood LED Navigation Lights
• Attwood 500 GPH Automatic Bilge Pump System. Two of these if I can run them on the same switch (5amp?)

Here are my questions:

• Will my bilge set up run on a 5 amp switch? Jack plate?
• Should a 10 amp ACC switch run any reasonable headlight setup?
• Battery recommendation?

Thanks,

Hank

Hi Hank,

• I would not recommend running two bilge pumps with the same switch. If you add a second pump, you will run the risk of nuisance tripping the circuit breaker when both pumps are running. If you increase the size of the breaker, you run the risk of not tripping the breaker if the pump motor gets clogged and locked.
• Most jack plates operate with a momentary up / off / momentary down. They actuate a relay system that comes with the power jack plate.
• The 10 amp accessory circuit will accommodate a pair of 55 watt halogen lights. Most docking lights are either 35 watt or 55 watt.
• You may want to consider switching to the eight-switch marine electrical panel to have room for all of the switches that you are considering. You would have enough switches for two separate bilge pumps, docking lights, jack plate, etc.
• I have always been a fan of the classic Interstate battery. The HD24-DP is a good all-round battery. The Optima Blue Top is also a great battery choice.

Please let me know if you have any questions,

Kevin