Kevin,

I could really use some of your wiring wizardry.

I have have a 2009 Centurion Avalanche. I put it up for winter and everything was working fine. I charged and installed the boat batteries after winter. All of the switches work, horn, stereo, pump, etc. I go to bump the key and I get nothing. The boat is still on the trailer and before I drag it to the lake I wanted to ensure that power was getting to the starter.

I made sure that the batteries are fully charged, boat battery switch is in the on position, emergency kill switch is in place, boat is in neutral…and I get nothing when I bump the key. I pulled the fuse behind the ignition switch and it looked fine.

The boat has dual batteries. The boat dealer added an marine battery switch last year as the batteries were draining even though the battery switch was turned to the off position.

The boat on has forty hours on it. After working in a confined space and pulling my hair out, I could use some expert advice.

Thanks,

Tommy

Hi Tommy,

If the instruments have power when you turn on the key, then I would check the neutral safety switch. Based on Standard Boat Wiring Colors, follow the yellow/red wire from the starter post on the key switch to the neutral safety switch in the shifter control.

If the key switch has no power, I would check the breaker on the engine that feeds power to the ignition.

If you use a voltmeter or a test light, you will be able to find the problem. It may be something as simple as wiggle the shifter a little or replacing the starter solenoid.

Hope this helps,

Kevin

Kevin,

I’m in the boat now with even less hair.

The ignition in the on position does nothing as well as the start position.

It appears that power isn’t getting to the switch. The fuse leading up to the switch looks good. I have also been playing with the shift lever to find the sweet spot, no luck.

Trying to locate the breaker on the engine.

Thanks for all of your advice, hopefully I can get on the lake today.

Tommy

Kevin,

You the man!!! It was the engine breaker.

Tommy

Kevin,

I am currently restoring and repowering a 20′ Bertram.

The boat is a stern drive with both batteries in the motor box. I have already purchased an automatic smart battery switch and an eight switch marine electrical panel.

This boat helm is very far forward. The boat will be used exclusively in salt water and I want to have a very “heavy duty” boat wiring job. All the equipment will be run to the forward helm and some accesories like

1. Bilge pump
2. Diaphragm pump
3. Washdown pump
4. Bilge blower
5. Navigation  lights

…will be needed to run back to the motor box. All other accessories will be mounted near the forward. helm.

Here are the other accessories on the marine electrical system:

• Stereo
• Boat horn
• Engine room lights (also run to the stern)
• Gunnel lights
• GPS
• VHF

I need a harness to accomodate all of this.

Your thoughts?

Thanks.

Marshall

Hi Marshall,

To do this job correctly, I would recommend that you build a completely custom boat wiring harness. The best place to start is with our wiring size calculator. Use this to determine what size wire your components require along with the size of the panel board feed wire.

Tinned wire in standard boat wiring colors and most sizes is available on our sister marine wiring site.

Good luck with the project. Please send pictures of the electrical portion of this restoration and we will post them on our site.

Thanks

Kevin

Hi Kevin,

I have a 2005 19’6” SeaPro Fish and Ski boat.

I did not use the boat for a year while we moved from Florida to Washington State.

Last week, I decided to get the boat ready to go in the water, I checked my battery, which checked OK. Assuming everything was OK, I took the boat to the water. The motor started up like a champ. The hydraulics work, but I have no power to the marine electrical switch panel or any of the switches that turn on navigation lights, radio or my depth finder.

I checked the 3A feed wire fuse and it looks OK. I cannot get 12 volt in the 12 V outlet for auxiliaries.

What could be wrong?  I checked the circuit breakers, but can’t tell if they are OK or not.

Thanks,

Jesse

Hi Jesse,

The 3A fuse is probably for a bilge pump auto switch or some other low draw device in your marine electrical system.

The main accessory power feed should have at least a 20 amp fuse.

If all accessories are inoperative, the problem is either the power feed or the ground for your fuse box.

I would check the boat battery cable connections and follow them up to the boat’s fuse panel.

You will find the problem,

Kevin