Kevin,

Here is a boat wiring diagram for the marine electrical on my 2008 Clearwater 2200WA with a 225HP Yamaha.

I have a two battery configuration where one is used for starting and the other is the house battery for electronics and the like. I have both boat batteries connected via a dual circuit marine battery switch (5511e) and both batteries are charged via isolated leads from the outboard since this outboard provides an accessory charging lead in addition to the primary lead to the starting circuit.

I keep both batteries off via the battery switch when the boat is not in use and the only direct wiring to the battery is for the bilge pump float switch.

The other day, I could not start the motor because of a discharged starting battery after the boat had sat for several days. I switched to the combine mode and the motor started. Ran all day with no issues.

Two questions, please: Is there a problem with the boat battery wiring or charging circuit? Will this circuit accommodate a battery charger if the boat battery switch is in the off position?

Thanks.

Frank

Hi Frank,

This is a great marine electrical system and the dual circuit PLUS battery switch is one of the key components. My best guess on the dead battery would be the device that is connected to the mystery red lead connected to your starting battery (at the switch). It is probably a stereo memory wire or some type of memory device.

With the switch in the off position, you will need to use a dual output battery charger or manually connect your charger to one battery and then to the other. If you are installing a dual output charger, I strongly recommend connecting the battery at the switch and your ground bus and not at the battery. Too many battery connections become confusing and the mix of small and large wires on the terminals always causes a loose connection.

Hope this helps and nice wiring diagram,

Kevin

Hello Kevin,

I am in the middle of the complete rebuild of of an older 19′ tunnel hull CC.

I am rapidly approaching the dreaded marine electrical portion of the job and I am thrilled to have stumbled upon your sister boat wiring site, EzAcDc. As I piece together the marine electric items I think I will need, I am requesting your assistance.

My outboard power is a 90HP Merc Optimax.

I would like to run dual batteries with a smart boat battery switch system. I need to run navigation lights, bilge pumps, and a hydraulic jack plate via the switch panel. I would prefer to add docking lights also operated by the switch panel and at least one 12 volt outlet.

I prefer to run two bilge pumps on separate auto float switches operated by a single panel switch. Additionally, I see the switch panels that come with 12V outlets, but do you sell 12V remote outlets by themselves?

So far, I am looking at the following:

• Complete Smart Marine Battery Switch System
• Snap Together Boat Wiring Harness
• Snap Together Five Switch Marine Electrical Panel
• Attwood LED Navigation Lights
• Attwood 500 GPH Automatic Bilge Pump System. Two of these if I can run them on the same switch (5amp?)

Here are my questions:

• Will my bilge set up run on a 5 amp switch? Jack plate?
• Should a 10 amp ACC switch run any reasonable headlight setup?
• Battery recommendation?

Thanks,

Hank

Hi Hank,

• I would not recommend running two bilge pumps with the same switch. If you add a second pump, you will run the risk of nuisance tripping the circuit breaker when both pumps are running. If you increase the size of the breaker, you run the risk of not tripping the breaker if the pump motor gets clogged and locked.
• Most jack plates operate with a momentary up / off / momentary down. They actuate a relay system that comes with the power jack plate.
• The 10 amp accessory circuit will accommodate a pair of 55 watt halogen lights. Most docking lights are either 35 watt or 55 watt.
• You may want to consider switching to the eight-switch marine electrical panel to have room for all of the switches that you are considering. You would have enough switches for two separate bilge pumps, docking lights, jack plate, etc.
• I have always been a fan of the classic Interstate battery. The HD24-DP is a good all-round battery. The Optima Blue Top is also a great battery choice.

Please let me know if you have any questions,

Kevin

Kevin,

I am currently restoring and repowering a 20′ Bertram.

The boat is a stern drive with both batteries in the motor box. I have already purchased an automatic smart battery switch and an eight switch marine electrical panel.

This boat helm is very far forward. The boat will be used exclusively in salt water and I want to have a very “heavy duty” boat wiring job. All the equipment will be run to the forward helm and some accesories like

1. Bilge pump
2. Diaphragm pump
3. Washdown pump
4. Bilge blower
5. Navigation  lights

…will be needed to run back to the motor box. All other accessories will be mounted near the forward. helm.

Here are the other accessories on the marine electrical system:

• Stereo
• Boat horn
• Engine room lights (also run to the stern)
• Gunnel lights
• GPS
• VHF

I need a harness to accomodate all of this.

Your thoughts?

Thanks.

Marshall

Hi Marshall,

To do this job correctly, I would recommend that you build a completely custom boat wiring harness. The best place to start is with our wiring size calculator. Use this to determine what size wire your components require along with the size of the panel board feed wire.

Tinned wire in standard boat wiring colors and most sizes is available on our sister marine wiring site.

Good luck with the project. Please send pictures of the electrical portion of this restoration and we will post them on our site.

Thanks

Kevin