Kevin,

I could really use some of your wiring wizardry.

I have have a 2009 Centurion Avalanche. I put it up for winter and everything was working fine. I charged and installed the boat batteries after winter. All of the switches work, horn, stereo, pump, etc. I go to bump the key and I get nothing. The boat is still on the trailer and before I drag it to the lake I wanted to ensure that power was getting to the starter.

I made sure that the batteries are fully charged, boat battery switch is in the on position, emergency kill switch is in place, boat is in neutral…and I get nothing when I bump the key. I pulled the fuse behind the ignition switch and it looked fine.

The boat has dual batteries. The boat dealer added an marine battery switch last year as the batteries were draining even though the battery switch was turned to the off position.

The boat on has forty hours on it. After working in a confined space and pulling my hair out, I could use some expert advice.

Thanks,

Tommy

Hi Tommy,

If the instruments have power when you turn on the key, then I would check the neutral safety switch. Based on Standard Boat Wiring Colors, follow the yellow/red wire from the starter post on the key switch to the neutral safety switch in the shifter control.

If the key switch has no power, I would check the breaker on the engine that feeds power to the ignition.

If you use a voltmeter or a test light, you will be able to find the problem. It may be something as simple as wiggle the shifter a little or replacing the starter solenoid.

Hope this helps,

Kevin

Kevin,

I’m in the boat now with even less hair.

The ignition in the on position does nothing as well as the start position.

It appears that power isn’t getting to the switch. The fuse leading up to the switch looks good. I have also been playing with the shift lever to find the sweet spot, no luck.

Trying to locate the breaker on the engine.

Thanks for all of your advice, hopefully I can get on the lake today.

Tommy

Kevin,

You the man!!! It was the engine breaker.

Tommy

Dear Kevin,

I am currently beginning my first boat wiring project, a total rewire of a small Owens cruiser from the late ’60s.

Here’s my problem:

The old wiring runs behind the original paneling and headliner. I could try dismantling everything to remove and replace the wires, but am concerned about damaging any of the woodwork. It’s old. It’s gorgeous. It would be a bitch to replace.

I don’t mind leaving the old wiring in place and just running a new harness, but that still leaves the problem of installing the new wires without causing any damage.

Any ideas?

RP

Dear Ron,

Your problem was common with boat restoration projects – until the introduction of Harness in a Can.

Harness in a Can lets you spray pro-quality boat wiring into even the most hard to reach areas. Simply point, spray, and apply power. What could be easier?

And, it’s not just easy, it’s ABYC approved! Harness in a Can sprays out a harness with correct wire color and sizing – and with all of the connections that you need to get the job done fast.

If you order now, you will also receive a cap snaffler – absolutely free. Cap snafflers snaffle caps off any size jug, bottle or jar…and they really really work.

Call now to order. The toll free number is 877-277-3665. Operators are standing by. That’s 877-APR-FOOL.

Kevin.

Hello,

Please could you comment on the boat wiring diagram that I’ve drawn up.

It includes:

• Twin Verado outboards
• Shorepower
• Generator
• House batteries.

I’m currently trying to wire up a new boat here in Oman (no technical expertise available) and I’m really concerned about dangerous AC currents floating around the boat whilst my family swims.

Please could you have a look and give me your comments as I’m no expert at this?

I know that I’m missing an earth wire from the fused junction!

Any input from yourself will be most welcome.

Kind regards

Glyn

Hi Glyn,

Very nice diagram!

I have a few comments.

• Add circuit protection at the source of power for your 24 hour emergency bilge pumps fuse panel.
• Add circuit protection at the battery switch for your main DC distribution panel
• Your shore power ground (green) needs to run to your AC ground buss
• Your galvanic isolator is connected between your shore power inlet and the AC ground buss in the green wire

Also, I would consider not connecting the 3 bank inverter to all 3 banks. Instead,

1. Connect two legs to the house battery bank
2. Connect one leg to the port engine battery bank
3. Connect 0 legs to the starboard engine battery bank

This would allow you to completely drain your dc system with the inverter and still be able to start your starboard engine and charge the system through your automatic charge relay

As drawn, your boat’s AC electrical system should be shock proof.

Most marine AC problems occur when the DC ground is not connected to the AC ground. If you boat has an AC fault to a DC component, the common ground will allow the circuit protection on your AC distribution panel to trip and not energize the water below.

Please send me pictures of this project,

Kevin

Hello Kevin,

Thanks for your input.  I’ve updated the pdf (in case you want to use it)

I’ll take pics and send them to you. But, it might take a while as I’m in Oman and it’s a real struggle to source the various electrical components. Nevermind the marine grade wiring (at the local marina they have a bad habit of using domestic grade wiring).

That’s why I’ve elected to attempt all this myself.

Regards

Glyn