Kevin,

I could really use some of your wiring wizardry.

I have have a 2009 Centurion Avalanche. I put it up for winter and everything was working fine. I charged and installed the boat batteries after winter. All of the switches work, horn, stereo, pump, etc. I go to bump the key and I get nothing. The boat is still on the trailer and before I drag it to the lake I wanted to ensure that power was getting to the starter.

I made sure that the batteries are fully charged, boat battery switch is in the on position, emergency kill switch is in place, boat is in neutral…and I get nothing when I bump the key. I pulled the fuse behind the ignition switch and it looked fine.

The boat has dual batteries. The boat dealer added an marine battery switch last year as the batteries were draining even though the battery switch was turned to the off position.

The boat on has forty hours on it. After working in a confined space and pulling my hair out, I could use some expert advice.

Thanks,

Tommy

Hi Tommy,

If the instruments have power when you turn on the key, then I would check the neutral safety switch. Based on Standard Boat Wiring Colors, follow the yellow/red wire from the starter post on the key switch to the neutral safety switch in the shifter control.

If the key switch has no power, I would check the breaker on the engine that feeds power to the ignition.

If you use a voltmeter or a test light, you will be able to find the problem. It may be something as simple as wiggle the shifter a little or replacing the starter solenoid.

Hope this helps,

Kevin

Kevin,

I’m in the boat now with even less hair.

The ignition in the on position does nothing as well as the start position.

It appears that power isn’t getting to the switch. The fuse leading up to the switch looks good. I have also been playing with the shift lever to find the sweet spot, no luck.

Trying to locate the breaker on the engine.

Thanks for all of your advice, hopefully I can get on the lake today.

Tommy

Kevin,

You the man!!! It was the engine breaker.

Tommy

Kevin,

Here is a boat wiring diagram for the marine electrical on my 2008 Clearwater 2200WA with a 225HP Yamaha.

I have a two battery configuration where one is used for starting and the other is the house battery for electronics and the like. I have both boat batteries connected via a dual circuit marine battery switch (5511e) and both batteries are charged via isolated leads from the outboard since this outboard provides an accessory charging lead in addition to the primary lead to the starting circuit.

I keep both batteries off via the battery switch when the boat is not in use and the only direct wiring to the battery is for the bilge pump float switch.

The other day, I could not start the motor because of a discharged starting battery after the boat had sat for several days. I switched to the combine mode and the motor started. Ran all day with no issues.

Two questions, please: Is there a problem with the boat battery wiring or charging circuit? Will this circuit accommodate a battery charger if the boat battery switch is in the off position?

Thanks.

Frank

Hi Frank,

This is a great marine electrical system and the dual circuit PLUS battery switch is one of the key components. My best guess on the dead battery would be the device that is connected to the mystery red lead connected to your starting battery (at the switch). It is probably a stereo memory wire or some type of memory device.

With the switch in the off position, you will need to use a dual output battery charger or manually connect your charger to one battery and then to the other. If you are installing a dual output charger, I strongly recommend connecting the battery at the switch and your ground bus and not at the battery. Too many battery connections become confusing and the mix of small and large wires on the terminals always causes a loose connection.

Hope this helps and nice wiring diagram,

Kevin

Hello Kevin,

I have a 1989 Four Winns Liberator 201 with a 350 OMC motor. I pulled the boat out of winterization today and wanted to check everything before I put the boat in the water.

When I went to hit the boat horn to test it, the horn sounded weak and eventually faded and did not work.

Next the navigation lights would not turn on. But when I hit the horn, the lights will turn on until the horn is released then they go off. Not sure if it could be a bad ground or short in the wiring.

I removed the access cover and found someone has cut and spliced wires on the boat before. There are also some wires disconnected and zip tied up and others just cut.

The boat blower motor did work when starting the boat but now it also will not turn on. I’m not an expert in marine electrical by any means but would like to find the issue my self. I have a voltmeter but never used it other than checking glow plug relays on diesel engines. I have used a test light on trailers – checking for power and such so I do have a little knowledge but not where to start on this project.

Any help would be great.

Thanks

Mark

Hi Mark,

I’m a HUGE Liberator fan. I worked at Four Winns during the era after their production.

There are few marine wiring items to check since several things have quit working.

• Main engine plug – round plug 1 1/4″ diameter on the starboard side of the engine. Unplug and check terminals
• Boat harness ground – check ground connection on rear bell housing of the engine
• Helm fuse block – check ground and power leads on the main fuse block under the helm

Once your find the corroded connection, replace as necessary.

Good luck,

Kevin