Archive for the ‘Testing’ Category
Troubleshooting Wiper Motors
Kevin,
We have three AFI wiper motors on our boat wiring. We have three switches and three fuses for the motors but they are all connected to the same circuit breaker.
Two of the wipers do not work at all and the third will come on sometimes but won’t stay on. The circuit breaker light stays on and the fuses are not burned out.
Are the motors getting the right amperage or any idea of what the problem might be?
Maureen
Hi Maureen,
Each wiper motor will three wires: Ground, On, and Park. If you are missing any of these wires, your wiper will not function properly.
- I would inspect the wiper motor grounds first. This is the only wire that all three motors have in common. The metal case AFI wiper motors are grounded to one of the motor housing bolts. The plastic case AFI motors have an internal ground.
- Next, check for constant 12v power to the park terminal on each wiper motor.
- Finally, check for switched 12v power to the On termianl on each wiper motor.
If all the wiring is correct, then you wiper motors may be dead. Before replacing, I would do one last bench test with separate leads to the wiper motor.
Hope this helps,
Kevin
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Shorted navigation light wiring
Kevin,
Wow…the world’s greatest site for boat wiring ever…thank you for your contribution to the boating world!!!!
Here we go…2002 Harbor Master 440W. Flip on the navigation lights at either helm, up or down, and within 10 seconds…pops the breaker and no nav lights.
I own a Multimeter…damn fine one at that…but have no idea how to use it, where to start or what to do to chase this down. Thought I would take the logical approach…hire the boatyard to fix…but they have had the work order now for 7 months and have just not had a chance to get to it.
I know I can chase this problem down with your professional guidance.
Help.
Warmest Regards…
Walt
Hi Walt,
First:
- Test the breaker.
- Check the rating on the breaker.
- Remove one of the wires from the breaker.
- Connect one of your meter wires to the open breaker tab and the other to the wire.
- Select AMPS on your meter.
- Turn on the switch.
If the current that trips the breaker is less than the breaker rating, replace the breaker.
Second:
- Reconnect the breaker.
- Most individual navigation lights draw less than 1 amp. Remove one of the nav light wires from either nav light switch (gray/green for nav lights and gray/blue for anchor lights). Connect your meter using the same method used above.
- Turn on the switch. Do this for each output wire on each switch. This will determine which wire has the short.
Once your determine which wire is causing the breaker to trip, follow the wire to the light it is associated with. The problem will be between the switch and the light.
You should be able to determine which wire is causing the problem in a few minutes. Finding the short may take a while, but it will be a simple fix.
Let me know if you have any questions,
Kevin
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Trim Gauge Testing
Kevin,
My boat’s actual trim works fine, but even so, the trim gauge always reads up.
I tested the wires from the sender under the motor all the way to the dash with a meter and found that the resistance varies. So, I took the gauge out to buy another. Before I spend the dough, is there some way to bench test the gauge?
Thanks.
Tony
A trim gauge is basically an ohm meter, so a bench test is possible.
- Connect your battery positive (+) to the positive post on the gauge.
- Connect your battery ground (-) to the the negative post on the gauge.
- Momentarily connect a wire from the battery – to the sender post on the gauge.
No wire connected will make the gauge move completely in one direction and a ground wire connected to the sender post will make the gauge move completely in the other direction.
Let me know if you have more boat wiring questions,
Kevin
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But wait…there’s more.
Dear Kevin,
I am currently beginning my first boat wiring project, a total rewire of a small Owens cruiser from the late ’60s.
Here’s my problem:
The old wiring runs behind the original paneling and headliner. I could try dismantling everything to remove and replace the wires, but am concerned about damaging any of the woodwork. It’s old. It’s gorgeous. It would be a bitch to replace.
I don’t mind leaving the old wiring in place and just running a new harness, but that still leaves the problem of installing the new wires without causing any damage.
Any ideas?
RP
Dear Ron,
Your problem was common with boat restoration projects – until the introduction of Harness in a Can.
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And, it’s not just easy, it’s ABYC approved! Harness in a Can sprays out a harness with correct wire color and sizing – and with all of the connections that you need to get the job done fast.
If you order now, you will also receive a cap snaffler – absolutely free. Cap snafflers snaffle caps off any size jug, bottle or jar…and they really really work.
Call now to order. The toll free number is 877-277-3665. Operators are standing by. That’s 877-APR-FOOL.
Kevin.
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